After a bumpy ride up to the base of the lava flow, we had to hike the rest of the way to the top. Loaded with overalls, goggles and water; this starts out as a deceptively simple climb. We are joined by two Americans and an English guy for the trip, all in their early 20s and who have travelled here to Nicaragua to try this new sport.
Climbing on the volcano is challenging, as every footstep is uncertain with the shale slipping underfoot. We are to trek up the east face of the volcano before surfing back down then west face. There is method in this madness, as there was a prevailing wind blowing when the volcano last erupted in 1999. This means that the lava flow on one face cooled more quickly than the other, leaving rocks that vary in size between baseballs and a family sedan. In fact, if you scrape away about four inches of rock, then the lower layers are still uncomfortably warm from the last eruption more than a decade ago.
The slope increases steadily until it is impossible to walk straight up any longer and we are required to walk back and forth across the face in a zig zag pattern to keep ascending. Everyone is very conscious that a slip at this height will mean a long roll down (at best) or an injury on the sharp rocks below.
Up above the half way mark, the weather turns quite suddenly and we are enveloped in alternating clouds of mist then sulfur. The rain is incessant and cold, as is the wind. Carrying the boards becomes increasingly dangerous as the wind catches then occasionally and attempts to wrench them from our hands, The mountain guide stops to remind us to carry them horizontally against our hip, and not to fight the wind. If the mountain really wants the board, let her have it, better the board than the person attached to it.
After a lengthy climb, we reached the lip of the crater and rested again to take in the view. On one side, the valley stretches away into the distance glimpsed occasionally when the mist clears. On the other side is the crater itself, dropping endlessly. The wind at this height is ferocious, and we are leaned into it trying to keep our footing.
The guide tells us that this is not the top. We must now walk around the edge of the crater to get to a safe slope for surfing. This means walking on the lip of the crater, a 1m wide surface that runs around the very edge. With near hurricane force winds that shift direction constantly, everyone is on edge. Safety standards or equipment simply do not exist here. If you fall, you stay there.
When we finally reach the launch area, the rain hurts. It is almost horizontal, and stings like needles. Climbing into the bright orange overalls provides a little comfort, but these are soon drenched as well. Goggles are necessary to protect against flying debris, and there is only a few minutes for a final briefing.
The question on everyone's mind is "where is the slope". In these conditions it is impossible to see more than a few meters ahead and we are conscious that somewhere nearby is a very long and fast way down.
The guide points out from the lip, and all we can see is an incredibly steep downward slope that ends in a shroud of mist. There is no 'horizon' and nothing to give a sense of direction or bearing He shows us how to sit at the very back of the board, and how to haul up on the rope to keep the leading edge out of the schist. He also cautions us to resist the instinct to put out our hands as the speed increases. The rock is very sharp and will cut like glass at speed. Someone is silly enough to ask how to stop, and the guide smiles and says that will happen automatically when you reach the bottom. There is no steering, there are no brakes, this is just a case of sit down and hang on.
We sit on the board and edge closer to the precipice, then suck in a lungful of breath and push off. The acceleration is slow at first, not at all what we expect. This soon changes as the slope increases, and the pace of the boards picks up dramatically. This is not smooth like skiing. The surface is hard, and small rocks fly all around, stinging hands and face as we shoot down the slope. Keeping the leading edge of the board up is a challenge, as all the forces of nature are trying to dig it in. This is a noisy sport, with the rock surface making a grating sound underrated the board, and the wind howling from all directions.
Too soon we are slowing for the bottom of the volcano. After such an extended climb, the entire trip down takes a matter of minutes. All are down safely, and there are high fives all around before climbing in the back of an all terrain truck for the trip back around the base of the volcano.
Location:Cerro Negro, Nicaragua
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